Gemstones, Diamond,Ruby,Sapphire,Emerald,Tourmaline,Kunzite,Peridot,Tanzanite ,Topaz,Apatite,Aquamarine,Opal,Lapiz lazuli,Turquios,Amethyst,Citrine,Pearl,Agate

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

kunzite



General Information of Natural Kunzite Gemstone

Like most natural gemstones, which are named after the person who discovered them or else researched it, kunzite gemstone is named after George Frederick Kunz (1856 – 1932), a New York jeweler. This gemstone was first discovered in Pala District of San Diego County in California in 1902. It is a fairly young gem, because it was discovered only a century back, and only now is it being seen in popular jewelry. The stone is valued for its pink color, which ranges in hue from a light pink to a deep lilac (bluish purple).

Kunzite gemstone belongs to the group of gems from the mineral spodumene. Due to its extreme fragility, kunzite is rarely used in jewelry where small pieces are needed. Instead, pendants are fashioned out of it and it is used as ornamentation for decorative objects. Gem kunzite is also known as the evening stone and the reason behind it is its susceptibility to lose color when worn in sunlight, for long periods of time.

Chemical Composition

Chemical formula of kunzite is LiAlSi2O6, making it a Lithium Aluminium Silicate of the group of minerals belonging to the pyroxene family, occurring in granite pegmatites.

Varities of Kunzite

Kunzite is variety of mineral Spodumene. Mineral Spodumene comes in pink to bluish purple, green, yellow, colorless, blue (very rare), and other colored varieties, typically light in tone. The pink to bluish purple colored stones are called as Kunzite. Medium green (rare, chromium colored) stones are called as hiddenite and yellow ones are called as triphane.

Physical Properties of Kunzite

Kunzite is a not a very hard stone measuring about 6.5 and 7 on the Mohs scale with a refractive index of 1.660-1.676 ( +/- 0.005). It has a specific gravity of 3.18 (+/- 0.03). Rough kunzite has long prism shaped crystals which are lathlike and transparent. These Crystals form in the monoclinic system and are typically heavily striated parallel to the principal axis. The crystal faces are often etched and pitted with triangular markings.

Color

Kunzite gemstone is pleochroic in nature and emits different colors, depending upon the cut, and the facet which has been highlighted. This gemstone may come in colors ranging from strongly purplish pink to bluish purple, while a few colorless stones belonging to this group have been identified. Kunzites sourced from Afghanistan often display a deep rich violet color as well as lighter shades of it, once again depending upon the observer’s angle. The lilac color is due to the minute traces of manganese found in the stone. To bring out the color, kunzite gemstone is almost always irradiated. Color enhancement by heat treatment is also common in this gemstone.

Cut

Like all gemstones, the beauty and color of the kunzite are dependent upon the skill of the cutter. Due to its perfect cleavage, the stone needs extreme care while cutting. Re cutting of this gemstone is generally not advised. The stone gives out a beautiful silvery sheen on its facet which enhances the delicate shades of the stone, and the shape of the stone can be of many different kinds.

Carat

Large pieces of kunzite rough are usually found and hence it is a relatively affordable gemstone. The beauty of the stone can be appreciated in large pieces, as they hold the color well and also because it occurs naturally in big chunks.

Clarity

Kunzite gemstones are generally free from any inclusions clear stones of eye clean, VVS, VS grade etc are commonly found, and the traces of manganese found in the stone in fact lend it color.

Price Range of Kunzite Gemstone

The Kunzite is a comparatively cheap gemstone and can be bought for prices ranging from as little as $ 1 per carat. The price increases depending upon the color of the stone. Big pieces of more than 100 cts+ size with deep pink-blue color can be bought for USD50-USD100. Pale colored stones are very cheap. Also it goes without saying that treated and irradiated kunzites sell for far lesser price than natural untreated ones.

Producers

This beautiful pink stone comes from mainly USA, Madagascar, Brazil, Myanmar and Afghanistan.

Simulants

Kunzite is often confused with the rose quartz, synthetic pink sapphire, Morganite, Spinel, Tourmaline and Fancy Sapphire.

Interesting Trivia and other Kunzite Facts

Medium green colored hiddenite gemstones of Spodumene family are usually sold in the market using the trade name as Lithia emerald. Light green or irradiated green spodumene cannot be called as hiddenite. To be called as hiddenite the mineral ahould have fair amount (medium) of green in it.

The kunzite is valued in gem therapy as a stone which gives the wearer peace of mind and calm disposition. It is also worn by people who wish to pursue the path of devotion for it induces inner peace and gives clarity of mind. Its healing properties extend to soothing frayed nerves and bringing about serenity, all of which is credited to its iridescent color. It is recommended that a person should hold the stone and look at it, in order to release stress and fatigue.

Tourmaline




A stunning bi-color tourmaline acorn, cut by Pala International’s Meg Berry. This stone won an AGTA Cutting Edge award in 1995. Photo: Wimon Manorotkul


Introduction/Name. Tourmaline is the name for a group of related mineral species. In gemological practice, individual species names are not used. Instead all are simply termed “tourmaline.” The name is derived from the Sinhalese word “tourmali,” which means “mixed parcel.”

Color. Color is king for Tourmaline, which is found in more hues, shades and nuances than any other gem. Indeed, not only does tourmaline come in every possible color, but some tourmalines have more than one color in the same stone. Here are a few of the more important varieties:

  • Rubellite – red
  • Indicolite – blue
  • Chrome– intense green colored by chromium/vanadium
  • Bi-Color – tourmalines which display two or more colors in the same stone
  • Watermelon – Bi-color tourmalines which show a green skin and a red core; these are often cut as slices
  • Canary – bright yellow tourmaline from Malawi
  • Paraíba– intense blue to green from Paraíba, Brazil, colored by copper
  • Cat's Eye – chatoyant tourmaline in a variety of colors
  • Color-Change – changes from green in daylight to red in incandescent light

Other varieties are sold simply with a color prefix, as in “pink tourmaline.” As with most gems, the color should be as intense as possible, not too dark or too light.

One of the more distinctive features of tourmaline is its strong pleochroism, with the ordinary ray color (the color seen parallel to the c-axis) being deeper than that of the extraordinary ray. In some varieties, this can easily be seen in the face-up position.



The effects of pleochroism can clearly be seen in this oval green tourmaline. Along the vertical axis, a bluish green color is seen, while along the horizontal axis, the color is yellowish green. This is a product of the doubly refractive nature of tourmaline. Photo: Wimon Manorotkul


Lighting. The proper lighting conditions for tourmaline will depend on the color variety. Reds, oranges and yellows generally look best under incandescent light, while greens, blues and violets appear prettier under daylight. When buying any gem, it is always a good idea to examine it under a variety of light sources, to eliminate future surprises.

Clarity. Different varieties of tourmaline tend to have different clarities. Thus while large clean tourmalines in the blue and blue-green colors are available, almost all red and pink tourmalines will show eye-visible inclusions. The most common inclusions in tourmaline are fractures and liquid-filled healed fractures. Needle inclusions are also common.


This suite of electric Paraíba tourmalines shows just why the stone has set the gem world afire. Stones such as this typically sell for tens of thousands of dollars per carat. Photo: Wimon Manorotkul

Cut. The cuts used on tourmaline are as varied as the color. Due to its strong pleochroism, darker tourmalines are cut to display the lighter of the two pleochroic colors. This means orienting the c-axis of the crystal parallel to the table facet. Gems cut with this orientation are often rectangles and rectangular emerald cuts because of the elongated nature of tourmaline crystals.

Tourmalines of lighter color are typically oriented with the table facet perpendicular to the c-axis, to display the richest color possible. Thus they are often cut as rounds, triangles, trillions and ovals. A quick glance at the tourmaline suite shows this.

In addition to faceted stones, cabochon-cut tourmalines are often seen.


A suite of tourmalines from Pala International illustrates the tremendous variety within this gem family. Photo: Wimon Manorotkul

Prices. The prices of tourmaline vary tremendously, depending on the variety and quality. Most expensive are the Paraíba tourmalines, which may reach tens of thousands of dollars per carat. Chrome tourmalines, rubellites and fine indicolites and bi-colors may sell for as much as $1000/ct. or more. Other varieties are available for prices between $50–750/ct., depending on the richness of the color.

Stone Sizes. Paraíba tourmalines are extremely rare in faceted stones above 2 cts. Fine Paraíba above 5 carats can be considered world-class pieces. Most stones tend to be less than 1 ct. Chrome tourmalines of quality are rare in sizes above 10 cts., as are rubellites.

Sources. Tourmaline is a pegmatite mineral and so is mined from the world’s great pegmatite districts. Foremost is Brazil, but fine tourmalines are also found in San Diego County, including the famous Pala pegmatite district, and Maine. The East African countries of Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique and Madagascar have also produced fine tourmaline in the past. Beautiful yellow “canary” tourmalines come from Malawi, while extremely fine rubellites and blue-green tourmalines are found in Nigeria. Afghanistan, Sri Lanka and Burma also produce gem tourmalines on occasion.


This watermelon tourmaline pendant from California’s Himalaya Mine is a wonderful example of the variety. Jewelry: The Collector; Photo: Wimon Manorotkul

Enhancements. Like the color itself, the enhancement possibilities for tourmaline are wide in variety. The resulting stones are stable under normal wearing conditions and completely safe. Heat treatments are used in some instances, while irradiation is used in others. Occasionally tourmaline is oiled to hide the visibility of fractures and other surface-reaching fissures.

Imitations. Tourmaline has never been synthesized, but a number of imitations exist, including natural stones and man-made imitations such as glass.



Properties of Tourmaline

Tourmaline (a mineral group)
Composition

Tourmaline is one of the most complex of all mineral groups, and includes the following species:

  • Buergerite: NaFe3+3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(O)3(OH)
  • Chromdravite: NaMg3[Cr,Fe3+]6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Dravite: NaMg3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Elbaite: Na(Li1.5Al1.5)Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Feruvite: CaFe2+3[Al5Mg](BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Foitite: [Fe2+2(Al,Fe3+)]Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Liddicoatite: Ca(Li2Al)Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Magnesiofoitite: [Mg2+2(Al3+)]Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Olenite: NaAl3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(O)3(OH)
  • Povondraite: NaFe3+3Fe3+6(BO3)3Si6O18(O)3(OH)
  • Rossmanite: (LiAl2)Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Schorl: NaFe2+3Al6(BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4
  • Uvite: CaMg3[Al5Mg](BO3)3Si6O18(OH)4

In summary, tourmaline is a complex aluminum boro-silicate, with heavy emphasis on the “complex.” One pundit likened it more to a medieval alchemist’s brew than a respectable mineral species. And a glance at the above formulae would bear that out.

Hardness (Mohs) 7 to 7.5
Specific Gravity 3.06 (+ 0.20; - 0.06)
Refractive Index 1.624–1.644 (0.18–0.40; usually 0.20, may be greater in dark stones); doubly refractive, uniaxial negative
Crystal System Hexagonal-trigonal
Colors

Any and all. Tourmaline occurs in more colors than any other gem. Some colors have specific variety names, including:

  • Bi-color: More than one color in the same stone
  • Chrome: Intense green, colored by chromium and/or vanadium
  • Indicolite: Blue
  • Paraíba: Electric blue to green, colored by copper
  • Rubellite: Red
  • Watermelon: Pink in the center, green at the edge
Pleochroism Strongly dichroic with the ordinary ray having a darker color
Dispersion 0.017
Phenomena Cat's eye tourmalines are common. Color-change chrome tourmalines, which change from green to red, are occasionally found.
Handling Ultrasonic: generally safe, but risky if the gem contains liquid inclusions
Steamer: not safe
The best way to care for tourmaline is to clean it with warm, soapy water. Avoid exposing it to heat or acids.
Enhancements A variety of enhancements are regularly applied to tourmaline, depending on the source and variety. These include heat, irradiation, and oiling.
Synthetic available? No

Sunday, September 12, 2010

General information on Gemology


Gemology, the study and science of gems, can be as much an anthropological study as it is a mineralogical one. Gemstones, because of their remarkable beauty, durability and rarity, have been granted a significance that helps us understand the history of mankind. The human race, from its infancy to present day, has sought to protect itself behind walls of mysticism and superstition reinforced with gem talismans that could be easily carried and hidden.

Ancient lore and legends associated with gems have, for the most part, been replaced with "rational" references of romance and poetic beauty, but precious stones remain the greatest universal talismans of wealth and power!

What is Gemology?

Gemology is the scientific study of gemstones, which often involves the study of mineralogical fundamentals such as formations, genesis, localities, physical properties and identification of gemstones. It includes the basic knowledge of structural, crystallographic, chemical and physical characteristics and properties of gems. It also involves the way in which gemstones are fashioned.

Special Gemology deals with categories and varieties of gemstones, synthetic stones and imitations. Conventionally, the organic substances such as amber, pearls, coral and the non-minerals are also included in this subject of special gemology.

Practical Gemology refers to the application of the knowledge of characteristics and properties of gemstones in identification or separation of synthetics and imitations. Diamond grading is included in practical gemology.


What is a Gemologist?

A gemologist is someone who studies gemstones. Being recognized as a gemologist usually involves having credentials from one of the Institutes for Gem(m)ological Studies discussed below (see Becoming a Gemologist below).


What are gemstones?

Gemstones are usually minerals but sometimes organic substances. What separates them from minerals in general is that they are used in jewelry or for ornamentation. That is a very thin line of separation, but usually we take 4 factors into account:

  • Durability
  • Rarity
  • Beauty
  • Acceptability

And, of course, there is a 5th factor:

  • Fashion

All the factors above are relative in nature. For instance, amber has very poor durability, isn't very rare and in general is not highly priced. Yet it is considered to be a gem due to its beauty.

On the other hand, most sapphire has good durability but can be very unattractive and inexpensive. Only a small portion of all sapphires mined have good color/beauty. The same can be said for diamond; the vast majority of diamonds mined are used for industrial purposes because they lack the necessary beauty to be worn as jewelery.


Becoming a Gemologist

Becoming a gemologist in general means hard work and commitment. A wise teacher once said "You are only permitted to read books related to our trade and a religious book of your choice from now on . . . for the rest of your life".


Education

Although you can find very useful information on the Internet (like here), we strongly suggest that you take formal training from one of the established institutes listed below. Our editors have graduated from at least one of them.

Some of the online gemological schools are basically run by one person and in case of mishap the school will cease to exist, as well will be your "diploma".


Gem-A

Better known as The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, this school is London based with departments worldwide. It offers distance tutoring as well as teaching centers.
The primary focus is on in-depth theory and the exams are the hardest to take in the industry. A fellowship of Gem-A means esteem.

Costs for Gem-A's distance learning courses:

Foundation correspondence course GBP 1500.00
Diploma correspondence course GBP 1695.00 (on completion is granted the FGA title).

Gem Diamond diploma course GBP 1795.00 (on completion is granted the DGA title).

Website http://www.gem-a.info/


GIA

The Gemological Institute of America is the most prestigious and respected institute for gemology within the United States. Its main location is in Carlsbad, California, with facilities in New York and Los Angeles. Courses may be completed by distance learning via the online "virtual campus". It was established in 1931 by Robert Shipley, and currently the GIA is the world’s largest and one of the most respected nonprofit institutes of gemological research and learning internationally. It employs nearly 900, including scientists, diamond graders, and educators.

Costs:

On campus (CB/NY/LA): 6 month continuous program (780 hours) $14,695

Distance Education: GEM130, GEM230, GEM230L, GEM120, GEM220,GEM220L, GEM240, GEM240L (Maximum completion time: 63 months) $6,975 ($7,420 International)

What you earn: Graduate Gemologist Diploma, Graduate Diamonds Diploma, Graduate Colored Stones Diploma
Website: http://www.gia.edu


AIGS

Thailand is in the heart of Southeast Asia's gem and jewelry production and trading area. It presents you with an extraordinary opportunity to learn gemology in theory and practice while experiencing the gem business in a three dimensional way.

The A.G. program, which leads to the A.G. (Accredited Gemologist) Diploma, includes the four core courses:

E102: Gem Identification
E103: Diamond Grading and Pricing
E201: Colored Stone Grading and Pricing
E301: Synthetic and Treated Gem Identification.

These 4 courses can be studied in any order, in one or several study periods at AIGS. It is recommended that “Gem Identification” be studied before “Synthetics and Treated Gems”.

Students enrolling in the entire A.G. program are entitled to a 15% discount off the total tuition fee. Courses must be taken within one year of the first date of payment. Beyond the one year period, students will be subjected to any tuition increases that may have occurred. (Example: Old fee = 20,000 Baht, New fee in effect since date of enrollment = 22,000 Baht, Additional amount to be paid = 2,000 Baht.)

Living expenses and general overhead are amazingly low compared to countries such as USA, Japan and most of Europe. Students studying at the AIGS can live with a US$600 to US$1000 budget per month including housing near the school, weekend field trips, restaurants and entertainment. Of course, you can spend much more if you want to, but this amount yields a comfortable lifestyle!
Website: http://www.aigsthailand.com/


DGemG

The Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft (The Educational Training Center of the German Gemmological Association) is located in Idar-Oberstein, Germany. Idar-Oberstein is an international colored stone gem capital, where gem cutting has been traditionally mastered for centuries. It is currently bustling with local gem artists and studios. It has, perhaps, the highest per capita population of gem cutters in the world! The German Gemmological Association was founded in 1932. Its laboratories have modern state of the art equipment, and one of the most extensive colored and exotic gemstone collections available.

Costs:

Euro 5,800.00

Website:http://www.dgemg.de/gemmologen_eng/index.php?seite=home


FGAA

The Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA), founded in 1945, is Australia’s historic trade-accepted non-profit educational authority for gemology.
They offer gemological courses in 6 state divisions.

Costs: contact one of the six state divisions for pricing.

Website: www.gem.org.au


CGA

The Canadian Gemmological Association, based in Toronto Canada, is a Canada-wide professional organization which has set the standard for excellence in the practice of gemology. It was founded in 1958 by Dean S.M. Field, and has since provided training in gemology to persons dealing with gemstones in the jewelery industry and to hobbyists for better appreciation and possible new career opportunities within gemology.

They offer a one-year correspondence course as well classes on location.

Costs:

The two-year correspondence course, leading to a Diploma in Gemmology and a Fellowship (FCGmA) in the Canadian Gemmological Association, is offered from CAD 2,150.00

Website canadiangemmological.com


Post Graduate

After gaining your gemological diploma, the real fun starts. You will know the basics and more importantly you will know how to understand the many articles published in various periodicals.
If you keep up as a consumer of the gemological literature and are involved with continuing education, you will be a good gemologist one day.


Career Opportunities

As with any profession, it is all up to you what you will become and what your salary will be.

Think of a gemological diploma as if you have finished your first year in college and the pay rate according to that when you start out. You will be qualified to find jobs in gemological laboratories worldwide and will be the key figure in the local jewelry store. You may become manager of a company, start your own gem trading business, become an appraiser, or you might just stay shoveling municipal gardens etc. Anything you set your mind to. Pay rate is according to experience and market.
Our best advice is to start networking from the start and to seek a new employer every few years so you can gain as much know-how as you can.

Monday, March 15, 2010

HOW TO COLLECT GEMS FOR FUN AND PROFIT

RUBY

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The world's best Burma ruby originates in the lawless region where Laos, Burma, Thailand and China meet. This area has become known and widely romanticized as "The Golden Triangle". The location is off the beaten track. A large amount of wealth in rubies, jade, silver, lumber and above all, opium, begins its journey in this "Golden Triangle". It is the home of drug warlords, arms dealers, insurgent armies, latter-day slave traders and plain, old-fashioned bandits.

Without a doubt, the best and most sought after ruby in the world by collectors is mined in Mogok, Burma (now Myanmar). The reason these gems are coveted is that they glow and tend to look good in all lighting conditions. This glow is the direct result of fluorescence. When fluorescent gems are struck with ultraviolet light, the gem adds an extra punch. Burma stones tend to be light and bright compared to ruby from other sources.

Although there are thousands of different shades of red, for the sake of argument, let's categorize Mogok Burma ruby into three groups:

  • The ultimate color is what is referred to as "pigeon blood", "stoplight red", or "cherry-lifesaver red". The primary color is red and the secondary color is orange, purple, or pink. These stones are ultra-rare and command price premiums. They are sought after by an awaiting international gem market.
  • The second major color is best described as "electric magenta". The predominate color is red and the secondary is pink. These beautiful stones are light-toned, bright, and vibrate with color.
  • The final group is "hot electric pink" or "day glo pink" gemstones. These stones tend to look good even without any direct light. The primary color is still red, but with less red than the "electric magenta" colors.


Which color is best for collectors? This is a controversial subject among dealers and collectors. Some collectors love strictly one group, for example the "pigeon blood" reds, to the exclusion of the other groups. Some collectors strictly collect the pinks or magentas. Some collectors believe it is too difficult to trade in only one group and collect the finest examples of all three groups. This is probably the most prudent strategy. For collectors on a budget, you can start with the hot pinks and work your way up through the magentas to the reds as your finances allow.

The finest one carat, unheated, Mogok Burma rubies cost between $2500-$15,000 per carat. Two carat Mogok Burmas are available from $5000-$30,000, three carats between $10,000-$40,000 per carat. Four carat Mogok Burmas can easily exceed $50,000 per carat.

Ever since Burma's Communist leaders shut off the country in 1962, Mogok Burma ruby has been an endangered species. Even before 1962, the famous Mogok tract production was in sharp decline. Mogok is 4,000 feet above sea level and frequently has over 100 inches of rain a year. It has been worked since 1200 A.D. Gem poachers worked this area by night. There is some limited production today due to the Burmese leaders present strategy of attempting to "open the country and acquire hard currency". However, the Burmese government is well known for constantly changing their economic policies.

Today most miners have left Mogok and are working a new find in Mong Hsu (pronounced "Mine Shu"). This mine was discovered in 1991 and the gems hit the US market in 1993. The mine is located 60 miles south of Mogok and sits in rebel territory. The Shans, an ethnic tribe at war with the Burmese Central government, control this area. Nevertheless, the Burmese government has auctioned off the land for mining and is even involved in a few joint ventures. Although the vast majority of the ruby production is rejection grade, it has been estimated that enough ruby has been mined to produce sales between $100-$200 million. Most of the goods are smuggled across the Thailand border at Mai-Sai or Mae-Sat. Then they are sent to Chantaburi, Thailand for heat treatment. Rough Mong Hsu tends to have a color-darkening blue hexagonal zone that runs through the center of the stone and looks like "bad garnet". After cooking, the stones turn into bright, lively red gems. As a matter of fact, most of this production looks exactly alike in color and tone. The largest Mong Hsu known is an eight carat gem that was rumored as being offered for $50,000 per carat. As a general rule, they sell in price similar to Thai ruby. Recent mining history indicates this find may be small and short-lived. The Mong Hsu material is presently involved in a controversy. We have always known this stone was heat treated. The American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) contends 70% of these rubies are also fracture-filled with intent to deceive dealers, jewelers, and the final consumers. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) says they are not fracture-filled. Therefore, the prudent course at this stage is to only collect Mogok Burma ruby, not Mong Hsu. However, Mong Hsu ruby may hold a special place in certain portfolios and in jewelry if you want a red stone but do not have the funds for a Mogok.

Due to the severe shortages in Burma production, the majority of rubies bought and sold today are from Thailand. A few Thai families firmly control every aspect of marketing; from mining to cutting and heating. If you are looking to collect a ruby on a relatively moderate budget, many experts predict this stone may, in the long term, eventually gain the acceptance Burma ruby now holds. Almost all of these stones are cooked. The majority of Thai stones tend to have purple secondary colors as compared to Burmas. Occasionally, you can find an intense red/orange that is highly desirable. Also, you sometimes find a Thai ruby with a lighter tone similar to Burma, (like those from the now defunct Bo Rai mine) that is highly desirable. Some Thai rubies approach Burma in appearance and are highly sought after. As a general rule, one carat Thai stones will sell between $1000-$7500 per carat. Two carat stones can range between $3500-$15,000. Three carat Thai ruby can cost between $4500-$20,000 per carat. Four carat or larger Thai stones can exceed $20,000 per carat.

Another interesting ruby worth noting is the star ruby. Rather than being faceted like most ruby, these stones are cut cabochon. Until recently, these stones always sold for more than the faceted ruby. In the late 19th century, three carat star rubies went for $3000 per carat. Stones found today that could be cut into stars are routinely heated to dissolve the rutile and then faceted. Therefore, fine stars are rarer than rare. Also, US buyers must compete with the Japanese and the Europeans who will pay any price for these gems. Star rubies were the rage until the 1960s, but have since fell out of favor. If you want to see an outstanding collection of stars, go to the American Museum of Natural History in New York and view the J.P. Morgan collection. In searching for these gems, follow these guidelines:

  • The six legs of the star should be sharp, not wide and blurry.
  • The star should be centered.
  • The main ray should run lengthwise.
  • The star should be silvery or milky white.
  • In an ideal world, star ruby should be the color of a Marlboro cigarette box. However, if red stones are discovered in Mogok Burma they are usually faceted and sold for serious money. Most star rubies today are red/pink or pink/red.
  • From a clarity standpoint, the stones should be semi-transparent. Like cat's-eyes, the stone should not be too flat on the top or too heavy on the bottom.

SAPPHIRE


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Today, Kashmir sapphires remain at the top of the gemstone hierarchy. The blue they possess is rich, velvety, and serenely soft. Originally discovered in 1882, the stones were so plentiful the locals would use them as flint stones. By 1925, the mines were nearly depleted. Kashmir is a mountainous region in northern India. It is about 86,000 square miles and has a population of over 6 million. Due to its beauty and towering mountain ranges, it is often called the "Switzerland of India". Much of the production today is smuggled out. The region is so inaccessible that it can only be reached by foot or mule. Mining is sporadic and only attempted for a few weeks in the summer. In the winter, temperatures can fall below -45 degrees F, and blizzards can last for weeks. During the Depression, fine Kashmir blues sapphires never sold for more than $500 per carat. These stones are so rare, only a few may be available at any one time. Today, you can easily spend $5000-$10,000 for a carat size gem, $10,000-$15,000 for a two carater. Larger stones can go up to $50,000-$60,000 per carat.

Mogok Burma sapphire is almost as rare as Kashmir sapphire. The production of Burma sapphire is exactly the same situation as Burma ruby. As a general rule, you are looking for a milk-of-magnesia electric blue. Deduct 25% off the Kashmir prices to arrive at the price Burmas are trading for. Add 40% for an ultra-rare uncooked gem. Many collectors contend that Burmas will eventually reach price parity with the Kashmir gems, and are buying whatever is available.

A major source for blue sapphire today is Sri Lanka. In the mid-1970s, the Thais experimented in heating these gems to permanently improve their color. Instead of using low temperature, charcoal-fire heat, they bought high-temperature kilns and sophisticated furnaces. This caused the milky yellow rough (called Geuda) to turn blue and it also caused cloudy stones to turn clear. This new technology actually more dramatically assisted commercial-quality blue sapphires than collector sapphires. Today, with the exception of a few fine stones, 99% of all blue sapphire is cooked. This market has actually turned into a two-tiered market; cooked vs. uncooked. Expect to pay about a 30% premium for a non-cooked blue sapphire. As a general guideline, Sri Lanka blue sapphire sells for 1/2 the price of Kashmir stones. The finest one carat Sri Lankan stones can range from $1000-$3000 per carat. Two to five carat sized stones sell between $3000-$7000. Over five carats, stones can reach $10,000 per carat. For moderate budget collectors, stick with the finest blue colors.

There are also new blue sapphire sources in Africa and Laos. Some of these stones rival the Sri Lankan goods. Thailand and Australia also produce blue sapphire, but they are overly dark, and should not be collected. They are simply too abundant.

Finally, like ruby, when some rutile-filled stones are cut cabochon they produce a six-sided star. Regretfully, because the Thai cookers have discovered how to remove the rutile by heating these gems, they are becoming very rare. Also, in the 1940s, Linde, a division of Union Carbide, began manufacturing synthetic star sapphires. Of course the synthetic star's legs were perfect, and consumers began demanding the same from the natural gems. This is really too much to ask from a natural gem. Nevertheless, if you are interested in collecting natural star sapphires, here are some tips: The quality of the star is everything. The star is more important than the color. Grayish sapphires tend to have better stars than the top blues. Gray stones tend to be better cut than the blues. The blues tend to have sagging bellies, while the grays are flatter. This is because the blues are more translucent, and cutters must keep more of the original rough to retain a star. Therefore to collect fine blues, expect to pay for extra weight. However, on the positive side, the consolation is that blues with fine stars are rare, and sought after by collectors worldwide. If one or two of the legs of a star are missing in a 10 carat blue, expect to pay $3000 per carat. If the star is perfect, double this price-if you can find one. Prices ease a little at 5 carats or less. For collectors on a budget, you can buy light blue or gray stars for 1/10 of these prices.

BURMA SPINEL


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Spinel is probably one of the most misunderstood, yet prized, gems in the marketplace. From the beginning of time, it was assumed all red stones were rubies, from the Latin for red "ruber". In 1783, mineralogist Rome de Lisle discovered there was a gemological difference between ruby and spinel. The famous "Black Prince Ruby" and the "Timur Ruby" in the British State Crown Jewels are actually high quality, and priceless, spinels. In the early 1900s, scientists devised an inexpensive method for creating synthetic spinels, which is why many inexpensive birthstone rings are actually synthetic spinels. The amount of fine spinel in today's market is severely limited. These gems are mined in and around Burma ruby as crystals and pebbles in placer deposits, where they accumulate because they resist weathering. It is amazing how many spinel turn up in ruby shipments at the border. Only knowledgeable experts can discern the difference. These gems are 200 times rarer than ruby, possess more fire (dispersion), and are available for about 25% of the price of rubies. For collectors, stick with gem, blood or day glow reds, hot pinks, and flame oranges. Any spinel over 2 carats is large. Occasionally, one finds a ten carat spinel. Some collectors collect one color, and others collect all the colors. Besides the most common colors, spinel also is discovered in blue, purple, and color-change. Pastel spinel is mined Sri Lanka. These pastel stones are priced in the $50-$500 per carat range. There is also new spinel production from Viet Nam and East Africa. With minor exceptions, these gems are not as intense as the Burma gemstones and should be avoided by collectors.

KENYAN TSAVORITE


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This beautiful green garnet was discovered in 1968 in the Tsavo National Game Park. When Campbell Bridges discovered the green garnet, he thought he had discovered a new source for demantoid garnet. Demantoid is the only other green garnet (once mined in Russia) and now trades from $10,000 per carat and up. Many experts believe tsavorite will be the next demantoid, extinct and ultra-rare. It is often called the Rolls-Royce of greens at Cadillac prices.

From an collector standpoint, tsavorite is 200 times rarer than emerald, is cleaner, more brilliant, is not altered with with oil or heat. Plus, tsavorite is available for 1/4 of the price of emerald. Today there are four small mines operating in Kenya. Any stone above three carats is considered large and exceedingly rare. Sporadic production probably means higher prices. The tsavorite pockets are small and unpredictable. Only one or two mines can be counted on to be operating. When collecting tsavorite look for a lime Jell-O green. Avoid light soda-bottle green or overly black stones.

TEN RULES FOR GEMSTONE COLLECTING


The following rules are critical if you are going to be a successful collector:

  1. Learn to love gems for their beauty, portability, and privacy.
  2. Align yourself with a knowledgeable expert. This can be a dealer, a wholesaler, or a retail jeweler. If you are going to deal with a retail jeweler, tell the jeweler your plan, and request that he work on a smaller mark-up than normal.
  3. Collecting gems is primarily suited for the sophisticated individual with a substantial portfolio. Place no more than 10%-15% of your portfolio in gems. A beginning portfolio will cost you $10,000 (one or two gems). A well-diversified portfolio will run between $25,000-$100,000, or higher.
  4. Do not buy a colored stone without an American Gemological Laboratory (AGL) Colored Stone Grading Report. For beginning collectors, this is critical. This lab is considered the final arbitrator in "country of origin" and treatment issues. If you are paying the price for a Kashmir sapphire, Burma ruby, or Colombian emerald, make sure the stone is accompanied with an AGL certificate stating the country of origin.
  5. Do not buy a diamond without a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Diamond Grading Report. This is the only laboratory that is internationally recognized. If your diamond has this grading report, no one will ever argue with the lab's grading of the stone. If you are collecting colored diamonds, this grading report is vital.
  6. Be sure you are buying at near-wholesale prices. Some good sources of information.
  7. View your gem portfolio as a long-term hedge.
  8. Allow time to liquidate. Gems are similar to real estate, rather than precious metals. Proper portfolio planning can alleviate this potential problem. Gems are instantly liquid, but at a discount.
  9. Buy the best you can afford. In up markets, "the best appreciates the fastest".
  10. Beware of boiler room gem scams. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it usually is. Watch out for Canadian firms with fake "look-alike" certificates and bogus price lists. Never buy a stone that is sealed in plastic or a lucite box.

CONCLUSION


No one knows what the future will hold. It is impossible to predict, if by collecting fine gemstones, your portfolio will repeat the success of Mr. Hancock's. A great deal of collecting is timing and luck. The philosophies of collecting gemstones are varied and complex. Some collectors only collect one specific gem. For example, some collectors purchase every spinel, emerald, or colored diamond they can afford. They are viewed as specialists. Others collect one specific color such as green; they collect emerald, demantoid garnet, and tsavorite. Some collect one species; for example, every color of sapphire. Others collect the finest specimen of every collectible gem available. They believe diversity is the key. Some collectors use a combination of these philosophies.

Irrespective of which portfolio theory you believe, the key is to collect gems you love. The buying, the possessing, the occasional viewing of your gems in your safety deposit box at the bank, should give you a feeling that is indescribable. The true goal of collecting is the pride you incur with owning some of the finest gems presently available in the world. Building a collection of fine gems should be fun.

If you buy, sell, and trade properly your gem collection should grow and grow. In a sense, it is almost a forced savings plan, but often viewed by collectors as considerably more fun than looking at a bank savings account balance. As time passes your gem portfolio may grow in value. If economic conditions change and inflation heats up, watch out, your portfolio may be worth a fortune. These two conditions, time and inflation, made Mr. Hancock's $20,000 investment worth $1 million.

However, even if you are not the next Mr. Hancock, the thrill of the chasing fine stones and the thrill of ownership is unparalleled in the collecting arena. The rest is just gravy. Good luck and have fun!


DIAMOND


Diamonds are the best known and most traded gemstone. Very few individuals collect white diamonds. One exception are individuals who collect D-Flawless diamonds. This is the ultimate "pure white ice" diamond. In 1974, you could buy one of these stones for about $5000. They topped out in 1980 at over $60,000 per carat. Today, you can buy a carat sized D-Flawless for about $14,700 to $16,400 per carat. Some people collect them in various shapes, such as rounds, pears, marquise, radiants, ovals, and princess cuts. Others just buy rounds. Also, some people collect only important large white diamonds. Collectors buy them for their history (perhaps someone famous owned the gem), or for their large size (any diamond over 10 carats is important).

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The vast majority of collectors collect colored diamonds. No other jewel combines the rarity, beauty and sex appeal of a colored diamond. Let's face reality. The majority of white diamonds are not rare. The DeBeers cartel is the most successful cartel in existence. For over 60 years, they have convinced Americans that diamonds equate with love. On the other hand, colored diamonds are exceedingly rare, and are simply geological flukes. For every 100,000 D-flawless diamonds, there is probably one colored diamond, and it is probably not flawless. The beauty and the rarity of these gems has spawned unprecedented desire and unparalleled prices for these diamonds. If you are a collector, you can collect colored diamonds depending upon your financial resources. If you are in the highest economic circle, you can collect reds, pinks, greens, and blues. If you are moderate collector, you can own fancy yellows and oranges. If you are on a tight budget, you can specialize in browns, from cinnamon to coffee to light beige. One important fact to remember is that in colored diamonds, clarity is secondary to the intensity of the diamond's color.

RED DIAMOND


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Red is undoubtedly the rarest colored diamond. Besides the .95 red diamond sold at auction in 1987, only a few others are known to exist. In the 19th century, a famous London jeweler owned a carat-sized red, which he bought for 800 British pounds. Is this the same stone as the .95? In the 1920s a 5.05 emerald cut was cut from a 35 carat piece of rough. This stone was cut by the Goudvis brothers in Amsterdam, after being found in South Africa. Rumor has it that occasionally a red diamond is found in Borneo. A .25 red oval recently sold at Christie's for $326,800 per carat. Red diamonds are almost priceless.

PINK DIAMOND


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Pink diamonds have always been exceedingly rare. In the 16th and 17th centuries, India was the principal source of pink diamonds. Recently, a famous light pink Agra diamond was sold at auction for almost $7 million. This stone was documented as being a gift to Babur, the first Mogul emperor, from the Rajah of Agra, for sparing his life in 1526. It later belonged to the Duke of Brunswick, the greatest connoisseur of colored diamonds of the 19th century. In 1725, Brazil produced some light pink diamonds. The Star of Brazil is a 128.80 carat rose colored gem, which was cut around 1832 in Amsterdam. An Indian gem collector paid 80,000 British pounds for it in the 1860s. It remains in India today. In 1947, Dr. John Williamson discovered a 23.60 pastel pink round diamond in Tanzania. It was not until 1979, when Australia discovered a small vein of pink diamonds that things really got exciting. Instead of being faint or light pink, these new diamonds are hot pink. They are producing about a 100 carats a year. The majority of gems are under one carat. In 1989, the Australian mine, Argyle, sold two pinks over 3 carats. It is rumored these stones were sold for $700,000 per carat. Expect to pay over $100,000 per carat for a carat size pink.

BLUE DIAMOND


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India was the main producer of blue diamonds from 1500-1700. This was the source for the 112.25 French Blue that later became the the infamous 45.52 Hope. Another famous blue, the 33.56 Wittelsbach showed up at a wedding in 1667, and ended up in Bavaria in 1717 with the ruling House of Bavaria, the Wittelsbachs. It is presently believed to be with a private collector in Germany. Today, new production of blues comes from South Africa or Australia. In order to understand pricing, here are some examples of recent auction prices. In October, 1994, at Sotheby's, a dealer representing a Hong Kong concern, paid $9 million, or over $460,000 per carat for a 20.17 blue diamond. In 1995, at Sotheby's, a 6.70 blue diamond sold for $3.52 million, or $525,000 per carat. The leading price per carat public sale for a blue diamond occurred in 1995-a 4.37 fancy deep blue diamond sold for about $2.4 million, or $569,000 per carat at Christie's.

GREEN DIAMOND


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Besides the Hope diamond, the second most famous diamond is the Dresden Green. It is green and weighs 40.70. it is believed to have come from Brazil in 1725. It was purchased by Frederick Augustus the Second from a gem merchant at the Leipzig Fair in 1742. Since then, it has been exhibited for public display in the west wing of the Dresden castle. In 1983, a 8.19 rectangle green diamond was sold at Sotheby's for $396,000. In 1988, a 3.02 yellowish/green sold for $1.7 million.

YELLOW DIAMOND


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Although faint yellow in white diamonds is not desirable, fancy intense yellow is sought after. Although India produced some yellows in the 16th and 17th centuries, South Africa today is the main producer of these gems. As a matter of fact, the first authenticated diamond found in South Africa was the 10.73 yellow Eureka. By 1900, South Africa had produced the 128.51 Tiffany, the 130 carat Colenso, the 228.50 DeBeers,and the 205.07 Red Cross. In 1996 at Christie's, a 8.45 fancy vivid yellow sold for $684,500 or $81,000 per carat.

Today, collectors can buy yellows in various shades from lemon yellow to taxicab yellow. The best pure yellow or orangish yellow will be called "fancy intense" or "fancy vivid" yellow on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grading report. These diamonds are rare and expensive. Slightly below these stones are the fancy yellows. These stones are more affordable but still quite yellow.

ORANGE DIAMOND


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In an ideal perfect world, you should try to collect orange diamonds that look like a Halloween pumpkin. These pure diamonds sell for more than the yellows. A 8.93 fancy intense orange sold for about $1.9 million at Sotheby's. However, if you are looking for a bargain, focus on oranges with yellowish secondary colors. You can also collect intense oranges with just a hint of brown at substantially reduced prices.

BROWN DIAMOND


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If you want to speculateon a fancy diamond at affordable prices, browns are a natural choice. The connoisseurship of brown diamonds may be in its infancy. In essence, these are the only colored diamond bargains left. Cardinal Jules Mazarin, the chief minister of France in the 1600s collected brown diamonds. In 1967, a 115.59 African brown pear shape was discovered. It was reportedly sold in 1983 for $900,000. You can buy coffee colored diamonds for $2000+ per carat. This is lower than many white diamonds.


EMERALD


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Collectors are fascinated with emerald. This rare and exotic gem is also known as "green fire". Colombia is the main source of gem emerald. This South American country is one of the most dangerous and unstable places in the world. Many visitors recall the similarities between Chicago in the 1920s and Colombia today. With the highest murder and kidnapping rates in the world, cocaine cartels and a long-running guerrilla insurgency, Colombia is often referred to as "Locombia", or the mad country.

The two most famous mining areas are Muzo and Chivor. Muzo is located 100 kilometers north of Bogota. The district is hot and humid, and it constantly rains. Muzo and Cosquez are the major mines here. Emeralds are found in black calcium-rich shale. Most of the stones from these mines are horribly included. Chivor, which is northeast of Bogota, is in a rugged, almost inaccessible topography with thick, forest vegetation. The two major mines of this district are Chivor and Gachala. Chivor mine sits 2300 meters above sea level on a mountainside. Chivor was originally mined by the Chibcha Indians and emerald was traded from the Andes to Mexico until the mine was lost. Chivor was rediscovered in 1896. In this area the rock is black shale and sandstone. The Colombian emerald market is wide open. Although the Colombian government leases mining rights to private business, illegal mining is the rule, not the exception. No one even pretends to control the situation.

Which mine is better for collectors? The terms Muzo and Chivor are often used in the trade, not so much to determine the exact source of a gem, but rather to to describe the qualities of the emerald. "Muzo" is used to describe a warm, grass-green emerald, with yellow being the secondary color. "Chivor" stones are like the pine trees of Washington state, with blue being the secondary color. Certain collectors and dealers argue about which color is the best, but it is really a matter of personal preference. In top colors (3.5 to 4.5 AGL) , both types of these emeralds are highly desirable and expensive.

Emeralds are very included compared to most gemstones. Inclusions that would not be acceptable in ruby and sapphire are acceptable in emerald. The definitive identifier for Colombian emerald is the three-phase inclusion; solid, liquid, and gas. Even though the gem is typically mined with eye-visible inclusions (even at the collector level), emerald is the most popular colored gem in America. Probably 98% of all emerald discovered would be graded Heavily Included (HI) or worse at the AGL. Therefore, a Moderately Included 2 (MI2 from the AGL) is considered a relatively clean emerald.

Most collectors seek strictly Colombian emeralds. They spend decades buying the finest green and cleanest stones available. Occasionally, African and Brazilian emeralds are discovered that look exactly like Colombian emerald. These gems make sense to collect if you are an emerald connoisseur. If you have a moderate budget, you can purchase African emerald. As a general rule these gems are cleaner than Colombian emeralds but have a touch of black and gray colors. They trade at a 50% discount to Colombian stones. Finally, if you are on a limited budget, occasionally Brazil produces nice stones at about 1/2 the price of Colombians. As a general rule, Brazilian emeralds are green/black in appearance.

Commercial quality Colombian emeralds can easily range from $500-$2500 per carat for one carat stones. High jewelry quality ranges from $2500-$5000 per carat. Gem, one carat emeralds range between $5000-$10,000 per carat. The finest color, four carat or larger Colombian emeralds can easily fetch $20,000 per carat. A ten carat, gem emerald can exceed $50,000 per carat. If an emerald is AGL certified as Lightly Included, add 50-100% to these figures.

Approximately 99% of all emeralds are treated. Similar to the heating of ruby and sapphire, this is perfectly acceptable. Emeralds have been oiled for centuries. Treatment is only possible when inclusions break the surface. Clear oil is forced into surface-breaking inclusions, thereby reducing the visibility of inclusions. Oiled stones tend to fluoresce a pale yellow. Some collectors view this process as akin to buying fine furniture. Once a year it is brought into the manufacturer for a re-oiling. A new treatment for emeralds is opticon. Some dealers contend opticoned emeralds have a better finish, are more durable, and the treatment is permanent. Opticoning uses the same theory as oil, but inclusions are filled with a thick epoxy instead of oil. The stones are sealed with a thin coat. A brand new treatment was introduced in 1997 named Gematrat. They state that their filler "de-emphasizes" the visibility of fractures but does not hide them. The GIA is presently working on a extensive research project that will include studies on emerald treatments and their effectiveness and durability to as many different conditions as they can reasonably test. Suffice to say, if you collect emeralds, you should be aware they are probably treated in some fashion.